Nerd Stalking Damien Carney for Hairbrained
Extraordinary. Visionary. Breathtaking. These are just a few of the adjectives often used to describe the creative genius of Damien Carney. Undeniably one of the most accomplished hairstylists in the last 20 years, Carney has elevated hairstyling into an art form through an impressive body of work. With a keen eye for detail and the ability to showcase a person’s natural assets, Carney has amassed a portfolio reflecting a virtual “Who’s Who” in fashion and beauty. Music and film stars such as Ryan Gosling, Grace Jones, Olivia Munn, Krysten Ritter, Beth Riesgraf, Trudie Styler, super models including Abbey Lee, Magdalena Frackowiak, Liberty Ross, Jodie Kidd and Karen Mulder are just a few of the “A-List” celebrities and top models who turned to Carney to create their image-defining hairstyles. In a career woven with honors and accolades, Carney’s high notes include being voted one of Modern Salon Magazine’s “50 Influential Hairdressers – Trendsetters” in 2008. In 2009, Carney was a finalist in the prestigious AIPP Coiffure Hairdressing Awards in Paris, honoring artistic achievement in internationally acclaimed hairdressing. He was a finalist in the 2007 NAHA Award Category of “Contemporary Classic” and received considerable world press as winner of the British Hairdressing Award, “Men’s Hairdresser of the Year.” Carney has also been honored to judge in the prestigious NAHA Awards. Since 1999, Carney has wielded his scissors and unique artistic vision for Shiseido Laboratories as the “International Artistic Director” for the beauty giant’s prestigious Joico hair care brand. In 2006, Carney channeled his passion for education into establishing Damien Carney London, a modern, mobile hairstyling academy with satellite offices in London, New York and Los Angeles. Through his vision, Carney inspires artists around the world to take hair design to the highest level of creativity and excellence.
Damien, your career is one that inspires and makes Hair Nerds want to tackle the next client they see and try something new. What message do you hope your work brings to hair stylists everywhere?
If my work triggers someone’s imagination to run wild, whether it’s artistically, technically, visually, whatever it may be – I’m delighted! Simply to answer your question, I hope to motivate stylists to eliminate fear from allowing their creativity to shine. Fear stops us all from doing things in our lives. Whatever it is - the fear of failing, disappointing, the fear of looking and feeling stupid or helpless. There is always a lesson to learn when you embrace fear!
The great thing about hair – is once you understand the limitations or boundaries, then you can take off in all the ways that are boundless. Practice and practice, and you will figure out on your own what works and what does not. I always play freely with a concept by myself to explore ideas. When I’ve mastered it, then I’ll expose it to the real world. It’s important that you find something unique about your creative self, your vision, your business, your team, etc. Doing what every other salon around you is doing does not make you special. I know you’ve heard this before, think outside the box! REALLY! Take your time at creating quality work that stands out from others. Clients will pay for it even in a slow economy. I hope my work helps stimulate stylists to grow technically, creatively and emotionally. A little push here and there does amazing things for ones mind, soul and career.
Early in your career you worked alongside Trevor Sorbie, Vivienne MacKinder & Eugene Souleiman. Will you share a memory?
Wow there’s way too many! Looking back, it was an extremely thrilling time. Virtually every day I would go to work (not work to me LOL), and I would be buzzing since the energy was so stimulating and invigorating. My role was Principal of Education at the Trevor Sorbie Academy of Hair. Vivienne and I were at the academy full time. Vivienne is an amazing hairdresser, in particular a spectacular communicator. She communicates on a whole different level than any other hair dresser I’ve known: articulate, clear, amusing, intelligent, fresh, in short, perfection. I could listen to her all day long, and watch her, as she deftly shared her incredible career-Sassoon methodology. She could cut anything, any texture, and any length. It would be technically perfect and artistically stimulating.
Eugene, the wizard, would appear to be in another world as he did hair. It was a world where Eugene saw hair, as no other. I was fortunate to experience Eugene’s world! A genius, his ideas and visions grace the pages of editorial magazines today. No matter what Eugene did, bizarre, visionary, odd, it always looked beautiful.
Trevor Sorbie - the man - a humble, pleasant guy that simply loves to do hair - and it shows! My most memorable time with Trevor was when he did the program called “Inspirations,” a photo shoot program where you got to meet and watch the master at work. “Inspirations” was the first program of its kind at that time.
The TS Academy of Hair was the only academy that was truly one of a kind, and it only accommodated 15 students. It attracted the best of the best hairdressers in the world - and I mean the crème del a crème of “A” hairdressers. They all wanted to see and experience Trevor’s world. The one thing I’ve learned in my career is to absorb all that’s around you, refine one self through education. Most important is to then use the information your way; interpret the techniques your way, otherwise you only learn what you’ve been taught, rather than learning to use your own mind. Trust your own judgment and your own instinct.
The more you think that way, the more you will do it that way, and the easier it gets to see other incredible things that might otherwise have passed you by. You can train your mind to do pretty much what you want. Learn a technique, but learn how to maximize it your way. Turn it into your success.
You have been an educator for a majority of your career. How do you feel this has added to your passion for the hair industry?
I’m a big baby at heart! I get bored easily. I need lots of stimulation, motivation, and I’m a very positive person. I like to see what life has to offer in all things and try other ways of doing things. I want to learn and absorb the methods that ultimately allow me, as an artist, to control my work creatively and technically however and whenever I want.
Education you cannot survive as an educator, platform artist, editorial artist if you’re unaware of what’s happening around you and what’s “HOT” now in the hair world that we live in today.
I find it super stimulating that things change so quickly in hair and fashion. Whatever happened to the longevity of hair and fashion trends of the past, what happened to seasonal, colors, hair and wardrobe? Today it’s all mixed up; you can wear what ever you want, regardless of the season. It’s about “ individualization.” The world is very different than it was 5 to 10 years ago. If one’s not aware of this, you simply get left behind.
In short, being in education means I’m always learning, I’m always growing, and that makes it easier to pass that energy on to other like minded hairdressers.
Variety is the spice of life. Routine can kill any passion or creativity.
We love how your work is always fresh, artistic and detailed. What is the first thing you do when prepping to create your visions?
Thank you, I try and try, I don’t always succeed. I always try to do my best - LOL!
The first and only thing for me is to understand, # 1 is the “Concept.“
My whole creative world exists on working around a concept. Some are small concepts, and some are large and complex. It’s all based on a concept and taking the journey from there, wherever it leads.
If I’m working on my own DC PRO project, that’s easy. All I have to do is please myself, as I’m the one leading, directing the project. When I’m working on my own project there’s lots of room to play and experiment. I can change things quickly and usually trust my instinct. It rarely lets me down. I always like to share ideas with the team I’m working with in terms of hair color, wardrobe, make-up, etc. I generally think five heads are better than one. However, on the other hand if 5 heads are not on the same “bus “ or within the same thinking mode regarding the concept, it can lead to major problems.
It’s team thinking here. That’s the key
A concept can evolve – it is:
An idea
A plan
An abstract idea
A general notion
A conception
[box] What does the concept mean to me in terms of hair?
I work in an organized manner, throw out all my ideas on a big wall, with images and then evaluate what is the best approach for the project.
How will the hair look?
What is the message within the hair?
How do others view the hair?
Have I achieved the goals of the client, manufacturer, photographer, celebrity, and their wish list?
Does it compliment the team’s efforts? [/box]
I have files and files of reference images, all organized into decades, textures, curly, straight, long dressed hair, men’s, etc. I have books and films also for reference.
The interesting thing is I can look at an image one day and see nothing inspiring. I look at the same image another day and see endless things that inspire me.
Where do you go to clear your mind?
I live and breath hair 24/7 – I have to switch off, as I believe it’s unhealthy and counter-productive if you don’t have breaks. I like to vacation where there are no or very few fashion driven, trendy bars or another fancy, trendy hotel.
I like nature – safaris, mountains and water. Anywhere where I don’t have to talk much! Sometimes I get talked out! Can’t talk any more, lol.
I find removing myself from constant speaking recharges my whole mind and body.
What is your theme song these days?
Desmond Dekker – you can get if you really want! Say’s it all!
How would you describe your artistic style?
I don’t like this type of question, LOL! What I think and what I suspect others think of my artistic style may be quite different. I feel my work has its own look. It’s not a natural look, although I love natural hair, images, etc. It has a stylized look that often evokes emotion with the blend of make-up, hair and wardrobe. I like to play and push hair in unique ways. Make the hair, “Damien’s” hair. My creativity embodies a strong foundational philosophy mixed with artistic interpretation for today’s eclectic world.
Having had the honor to be one of the judges for the North American Hairstyling Awards gives you the opportunity to view tons of entries. What advice do you have to those who are entering?
It’s all about balance, with make-up, hair and photography. A photograph is non-forgiving when it comes to the team’s vision and the interaction of key elements. For example, if the wardrobe and make-up dominate the hair – then it will be a weaker entry. Each member of the team and what they contribute to the finished look should compliment the hair, as that’s the focus.
Stay true to the category and the rules. I often find it difficult to determine the image category. Some images blur the line as to what category it really belongs in, so stay true to the category.
Avoid too much photo shop! Absolutely clean up the images, but do not over do it.
Don’t conform to what you think the competition demands. What I mean by that is stay true to your vision and what you want your image to say. Not what you think NAHA wants or what you think your competition may or may not be presenting. NAHA is open to all forms of art. Just stay true to the category.
Winner or not, my hat goes off to those who enter. I’m extremely aware of the time it takes to organize and orchestrate the project when doing a shoot. Bravo!
You will still have images to promote your artistry, your vision and who you are. Your images are an incredible tool for growing and marketing you and your business. Your images travel world wide with the click of your computer button. How cool is that? Your photographic image is everything to you and about you, as an artist.
Owning a successful salon and maintaining a successful chair is something many salon owners struggle with. How do you feel one can find balance and success in this situation?
I don’t think the perfect balance really exists. Balance shifts and sways with the times, situations and circumstances regarding your salon business. Hairdressers are generally arty, creative people that can be difficult to manage, as they are often emotional and offer very different points of view. That can be good, and it can also work against you if you don’t learn to tap into the creativity and manage the ups and downs.
You can’t be everything to everyone. You cannot be great at men’s hair, long hair, coloring hair, cutting hair, managing the salon, training the staff, and balancing the account books. It’s simply impossible to do.
Focus on your strengths and nurture the strengths of your team. Then allow the strength of the team to bring the balance to your salon business. There will always be the complainer in the staff room, but they will never leave, they just complain. You have the joker, who is always laughing. Then there’s the artist always one step ahead of the others, when it comes to trends. I love them all, and they are all part of a healthy business. It takes all sorts to make the world go round.
The bottom line is, as a salon owner; don’t settle for anything but the best. Make excellence the standard at your salon. Fire them quickly and hire them slowly. Whose business is this anyway, and what do you want? Remember one thing, if your staff is not with you, and they don’t want to be with you when it comes to your visions and goals, then let them go.
Don’t be frightened to tell them what you want and what to expect.
Keep education offerings current, relative, stimulating, inspirational, rewarding and fun.
Tell them when fail and don’t meet the standards – but help them, support them to grow and succeed. Tell them they did a great job and reward them.
Tap into what each individual is really good at doing such as cutting, coloring, and maximize their strengths. Don’t be a “jack of all trades and a master at none.”
It’s your business, take control, and as the leader be steps ahead of the game.
Earn the “respect “ of your team.
We love reading your blog posts and enjoying your work on Hairbrained! How do you feel Hairbrained has helped the hair community?
Hairbrained - It’s all about the HAIR!
The love for hair, technique, vision, questions, answers, debates, images, etc. It’s not about shoving the latest hair product or tool down into the hands of the hairdresser. It’s real and honest in its approach, format and debates.
You attract what you project! The audiences you have are smart, intelligent hairdressers. They love Hairbrained because it cuts out all of the insignificant conversations and topics that are pointless and serve no purpose.
I love Hairbrained. It’s always real, always fresh, always truly inspiring. Keep up the amazing work!
We have had the pleasure of attending education with you and Sue Pemberton at numerous shows. Why do you think you two work so well together?
Sue and I have a great understanding of each other and respect each other. We both want the same at the end of the day, when it comes to our work. Sue colors hair, and I cut and style. Two heads are better than one!
What is your advice to stylists who are trying to showcase their creations while building a solid team?
Go search and you will find. Look and you will find! Today it’s easier than ever, as you can research on your computer and seek out talent to assist in your projects or find opportunity for yourself to join a team. No matter where you live, there is someone looking for a talented hairdresser to get involved with hair projects. You’ve just got to do some research and connect. Search out colleges and academies that have photography or fashion students, make-up artists, beauty schools, etc. Like anything, sometimes you have to go through 10 to find 1 person that is the right fit. That’s just the way it is, at times.
Building a team - Don’t give up on the first time of working with your new partners or team. Be patient, set out goals, time lines, expectations, etc.
You have to get to know each other. You might not hit if off straight away. The more you work together, generally, the better the understanding within the group, but this can take time.
I have my “3” rule – if I’m working with someone new or a new team. If by the 3rd attempt it doesn’t work as I planned, I generally move on. Check out - model mayhem, model agents, and hair and make up agents. Hairbrained. There are many creative web sites posting requests for people who are looking for hair talent to collaborate with on projects. Then do your homework, and ask lots of questions, share your goals, etc., to make sure whoever joins you will be working toward the same goal.
What 3 items would you die without?
My 2 E Type Jags. The driving experience is thrilling. I like new cars, but my e types outclass any new car.
Anything I own by John Galliano. I’m really not obsessed by designer clothes, by any stretch of the imagination. BUT - Galliano is the master of design, simply divine works of art!
My Apple and MAC products – who wouldn’t? I have 3 laptops, 4 desktops, iPad, iPhone. Help, I’m addicted! Amazing design. Amazing performance.
What has been the most amazing opportunity you have had in this industry so far?
I do believe it is yet to come! Amazing opportunities happen every day. I have amazing moments when I’m doing hands-on education with a hairdresser, and they learned something new. A light bulb moment for them, that’s amazing to me. Watching a team member grow and develop, that is amazing to me.
If you had asked me this question 20 years ago, the answer would have been doing celebrity hair. I’m not bedazzled by many famous people, really – we are all human.
I’ve met many, many, many celebs. Some are a pain in the butt, and most are real people that just happened to be famous.
I have no real desire to win or gain awards, although the competition and preparation are fun. I’m a grassroots, real person. It can be easy to get caught up with the “glam” part of our business, and I believe you can enjoy exciting opportunities without them going to your head. I like to have my feet firmly planted on the ground. I’ve worked my entire life to be the best I can, and I have complete faith that the best and most exciting days are yet to come!
Have you ever had an "OMG, what the hell am I doing here?" moment? Share.
Yes, yes, yes, I have many, but not going to tell you one! It will get me into trouble – lol! What I will say is, I have no time for incompetent people who don’t have the passion and love for hair. They think it’s all glorious and glamorous, and want to live in that world without lifting a finger. OMG! Please get them away from me. What am I doing here? … lol!
My words to live by ...
Practice what you preach or zip it!
What do people find most surprising about you?
I’m just a nice guy, just like most educators and platform artists. Just like anyone, no matter what they do. My willingness to share information, knowledge. Why not, if it helped me, let it go, and pass it on to others if it will help them.
We all have the same insecurities, problems, trying to set and reach goals, etc. etc. No matter what we do or who we are. It’s how we deal with and manage them that is the key. I just like to have a great day with like-minded people. Have fun, chat, giggle, that’s it. Oh happy days …. oh happy days…. I feel a song coming along … really!
What is your next BIG goal?
There is no real big goal at the moment. Unless some one out there has millions of $$$$ and they want to do something with it. Just call me!
But then I’m not really driven by money.
I’ve worked myself into a position that I can decide when and with whom I want to work. I’ve worked very hard to reach that point in my career.
But then …….. these sound like really good ideas ……
Maybe a product line
An academy
A book
A TV series
A film
A clothing line
A make-up line
A yacht
ACTUALLY, NONE OF THEM! I’M VERY HAPPY AT THE MOMENT!
I knew I was a Hair Nerd when….
Randy and Gerard first started Hairbrained, a fresh perspective on hair, no bullshit. Real, honest information - that’s inspiring, useful and stimulating. Keep up the great work.
Love it!!!!
Dames xxoxoxox
Be sure to Nerd Stalk Damien Carney on Facebook and his website for regular updates on classes, shows and other educational events.
www.damiencarney.com
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Damien Carney ~ Accolades & Awards ~
2012 Mirror Award - “International Stylist of the Year”
Modern Salon Magazine’s “50 Influential Hairdressers”
British Hairdressing Awards – “Men’s Hairdresser of the Year”
NAHA Finalist
AIPP Coiffure Hairdressing Awards Finalist – Paris